Wednesday, May 9, 2012

The Other Side of Alentejo

We decided a couple of days away from the big hill would do us good and after a bit of thought we agreed that Mertola would make a good break.
The drive on Sunday morning was brilliant.  All the flowers are begining to cover the landscape.  It's difficult to keep one's eyes on the road.  We drove east to Castro Verde.  The land is big and wide.  And then , after CV there are a few big hills which just pop up out of the horizon.  Very exciting to see something different after weeks of the same views around S Luis.
We got there in time to have lunch.  All the restaurants were serving cozido de grao.  Must be the regional dish.  Very tasty, anyway.  And then we went on the museum circuit.  First stop the weaving museum.  It's a living museum, with three women sitting teasing wool.  One was quite ancient.  And they have some ancient looms too.  They showed me how they spin on a hand driven spinning wheel.  It looked hard, spinning with one hand.  All the wool they spin they weave into lovely, traditional blankets, which were so soft and all using natural colours from the sheep.  I think that was my favourite museum.  :)
It was very peaceful to just sit and watch the Guadiana flowing slowly by whilst sipping a beer and feeling on holiday.  It's such a short distance away from home, and still in Alentejo, but it feels different.  We drove to Pomerao, where the mining company used to load their cargo onto ships bound for England.  The river is deep.  There is a big Spanish dam next to it and one can drive into Spain from there.  Much shorter than going to Serpa or Faro.... But we decided that would be for another time.
We had a room with a view, and a balcony!  The big fat full moon shone on the river and the nightingale sang all night.  I know cos I couldn't sleep!  (Too much red wine usually does that...)
Mertola is very proud of its history and you really feel connected to it.  The Romans, the Moors, the Christians, and also the older peoples.  And always it's Portugal.  Grilled chicken, Stewed pig, boiled fish.
All good.  Recommended!

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